Vent and filter! I have one of these under the bed and the printer is vented.
- Posts
- 17
- Comments
- 495
- Joined
- 3 yr. ago
- Posts
- 17
- Comments
- 495
- Joined
- 3 yr. ago
As someone with a foot in Windows and Mac, they both suck for different reasons and you're trading pain in one for pain in the other.
Windows sucks because of all the stupid one drive and AI garbage. No, I don't want my desktop and tons of other directories in one drive, stop asking me. The constant migration of settings out of control panel is maddening. Windows 10 end of life is fine, but cutting off older PCs from windows 11 for "reasons" was an absolutely horrible choice.
Mac is fine if you do super basic computing, but if you want to do much of anything it's very annoying out of the box. Window management is annoying unless you get an app like magnet, the ribbon can't be displayed on dual monitors and there's no way of fixing the primary monitor, keyboard shortcuts are inconsistent across applications like command delete and keyboard shortcuts in general suck (command + shift + 3-5), the OS greatly dislikes network storage, etc etc. Macs were somewhat isolated from marketing needing a "new" OS every year until recently. Now they're in the change for the sake of things to list on the new OS page trap.
Linux isn't without fault, but my experience has been much more pleasant.
This is a very easy to follow guide that walks you through everything but temperature towers in a sequential order: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
Late to the party, but...
How well tuned is your printer? This whole print is a torture test with lots of retractions and thin walls. For things to go well you will have needed to dial in flow rate, print temperature, cooling, and retraction. As someone else said, if the nozzle catches on an unsupported lever arm (aka one of the vertical pieces before a horizontal bridge has been completed) it can/will break it off.
If your printer has never pulled off this type of print before I suggest running through some basic tuning tests before worrying about potentially wet filament unless you live in a very humid environment. I live in a temperate climate where it doesn't generally get that humid. My printer and filament live in my basement, which has a dehumidifier in it. I've never dried a role of filament and I leave spools unfinished for 6+ months. That's not to say that you never should dry your filament or that doing so won't improve print quality. I'm just trying to say that I have not experienced a higher rate of print failure with older spools.
You already got the hot pan bit, but I'll give you something to look for - you want the egg to immediately start bubbling on the bottom when it hits the pan.
I personally use butter instead of oil, but any fat will keep the egg from sticking. Any pan should do fine, but if you're using stainless a bit more fat is probably a good idea. Things seem to stick the most to stainless pans in my experience.
As for the top of the egg, you can either give it a flip and cook the other side for a short while (aka over easy) or use a lid. You don't have to use a lid, but it makes it a lot easier. If you're going the lid route toss a teaspoon or two of water in the pan before you cover it.
Seems like great success? If so, great. The only things about your routine I would change is to not submerge, not because that's bad but because who wants to obsess over cleaning their sink first, and use paper towels to dry. You want to make sure no films are transferred to the bed.
More work location flexibility is certainly something I would appreciate. The company I work for is hybrid and with the looming economy mess I've been putting off job hunting. I would much rather be somewhere with a network should things go sideways.
I will give it a try, thanks for the suggestion.
Sorry, I meant a decent editing workflow. Things along the lines of editing - adding outlined text, moving and/or removing things, etc. For example, I've tried gimp a few times but I've found myself fighting against the way it wants you to do things.
Thanks a lot for the suggestions, I'll have to check Pinta out.
Noise cancelling headphones and background music helps a ton when I'm in the office. Stupid open office...
I found darktable pretty user friendly TBH. The thing I've been struggling with is image editing - I can't find something that has a decent workflow. I'm not looking for anything fancy. Paint.net on windows more than met my needs when I was spending more time in windows.
White collar professionals who spend their days developing and deploying software or working on compute infrastructure? Sure, some of them have been on Linux for decades. Although many big corpos love Windows and Microsoft products, so at best you're going to have a foot in both worlds if you work at one of these companies.
Some admin jobs that don't require bespoke software (ie very little beyond say an office suite) have started making the jump recently to save $$.
Basically every other white professional that needs to work on a computer with industry specific software like people in medical, engineers, business? Odds are they use windows since the software they use for their job is probably only built for Windows and maybe Mac if they're lucky. Very few employers are going to mass deploy Linux to run applications via Wine. These employers have support contracts for the major software products their employees use and they won't get support if they're not running software on its native OS.
This is less about 3D printing and more about "what material will adhear to the layer before it?" For example, using both water and oil based products is generally not a great idea. If want to use both then a layer of sealer will help.
How you want to apply the paint (eg air brush vs bristle brush) will greatly impact which paints and finishes you can choose. It will also greatly impact your final finish/look.
In most cases no need to "seal" paint. In fact, depending on the type of paint it might be a sealer itself. A sealer can protect the paint below it from say UV light or water. A sealer can help you achieve a higher gloss finish. However, the paint itself might already be durable, UV stable, and have the sheen you want.
The question isn't which store sells better paint, it's what kind of paint do you want to use? After that the choice of store is largely a question of who carries that type of paint with an added wrinkle or brand variation. For example, you're not going to find miniature airbrush paint at a big box store and you're probably not going to find automotive paint at either.
Straight up vibe coding is a horrible idea, but I'll happily take tools to reduce mundane tasks.
The project I'm currently working on leans on Temporal for durable execution. We define the activities and workflows in protobufs and utilize codegen for all the boring boiler plate stuff. The project hasa number of http endpoints that are again defined in protos, along with their inputs and outputs. Again, lots of code gen. Is code gen making me less creative or degrading my skills? I don't think so. It sure makes the output more consistent and reduces the opportunity for errors.
If I engage gen AI during development, which isn't very often, my prompts are very targeted and the scope is narrow. However, I've found that gen AI is great for writing and modifying tests and with a little prompting you can get pretty solid unit test coverage for a verity of different scenarios. In the case of the software I write at work the creativity is in the actual code and the unit tests are often pretty repetitive (happy path, bad input 1...n, no result, mock an error at this step, etc). Once you know how to do that there's no reason not to offload it IMO.
That's exactly why I preferred cash when I was in my 20s, but there's a catch. Completely avoiding the credit system isn't good for longer term finance either. In the US at least, no credit can be worse than bad credit. This makes it hard to escape the poverty trap even if you get finances are in order.
This whole reply was top shelf!
I am not sure that I completely understand your premise. Products are generally available during a depression. The best financial course of action today is to save money... unless the dollar becomes devalued too, which will make imports more expensive.
In terms of finances, doing things to lowering your fixed monthly bills is always a good idea - looming depression or otherwise. Since you're in Texas and you're all engineers, perhaps look into solar and/or battery storage for electricity? Do the math first obviously. A small(er) garden can help save some $$ but you have to be careful how much you spend on it.
If you're coming from the perspective of wanting to provide value to your family, simply helping out around the house (cooking, cleaning, etc) and taking on projects you've all been putting off will probably go a long way. Your labor might not be cheaper than a builder's now, but... Doing home repair/improvements, landscaping, building an out-building, building some outdoor shade, etc could be really appreciated.
If you're looking to earn some $$, farming seems fairly depression proof, but should a depression hit people won't be buying cash crops. Relative to labor input farming will likely not be very lucrative. Starting a side hustle/business might be a better option. It seems like the demand for repairing basically everything would go up. People will also be looking for cheap local distractions.
The YOLO option is to buy a ton of imports from a country you expect will have their currency strengthen relative to the dollar and then sell those items once the cost of them goes up, but this sounds super risky.
That's an interesting suggestion. What failure mode have you found that to help with? I am under the impression that the temperature gradiant between the bottom of the print and the top of the print, combined with thermal expansion, is the reason why printed parts warp. ABS/ASA expand/contract twice as much as PLA.