That extends beyond just terminal but completely agree that their stock experience is... not great.
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Let me assure you this is already happening.
Apologies for the delayed reply, it's been a week.
Vorons are capable because the base design is pretty good out of the box and because the design is open source. As other companies come up with cool ideas you'll usually see a mod to adopt them to a Voron. It wouldn't surprise me if this idea is adopted. Until very recently, things like hot ends were commodity parts made by third parties and not the printer OEMs. This made part availability fairly guaranteed and also feels more open. The good news is that it looks like Bambu will sell these parts at some point.
As for existing options in Voron land, there three popular mods out there for multi-toolhead: StealthChanger, TapChanger, and Mad Max.
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Sounds like a good place to plant some mint!
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We have a thin strip of mint that's exactly what you described. Fresh mint all spring and summer is great for a variety of reasons, plus it smells good. That said, we're constantly fighting runners trying to grow in every conceivable crevice. It tries to grow in the cement expansion joints and in the joint between our house and sidewalk by the door.
I recently had a drive fail in my 4 bay nas. Amusingly, synology branded drives seem like they're pretty close to p ice parity with OE drives these days.
Solid natural wood is a horrible material for loudspeaker cabinets. Granted, this fact isn't limited to just speakers. Wood expands and contracts with humidity, which means making boxes of any type out of solid wood complicated. Cabinet doors have floating panels in the center for exactly this reason. That's why you should use breadboard ends if you want to frame a wood table, otherwise your table will risk warping and cracking. There's also the whole non-uniform density thing. Most loudspeakers use something like MDF as a substrate and will veneer the outside. MDF is both stable and uniformly dense, which makes achieving a "dead" (or non-resonate) enclosure a lot easier.
Eh. The days of DIY printers both costing less and out performing are a thing of the past. I would argue that Vorons are more capable than say a Baubu, but I digress.
2.4 R2 owner chiming in. I built mine about 3 years ago after window shopping for a year.
Why Voron in 2026?
- They're fully open source. This has a couple of benefits such as (basically) guaranteed repairability in the future and super easy modability. Basically all the parts are standard, so you should have no problem sourcing replacements. Want to change something? Download the official CAD and remix
- Being open source means there's a huge quantity of official and unofficial mods available, as well as tons and tons and tons (and tons and tons, but I'm getting tired of digging up links) of commercial hard parts if you want to tinker. Yes, commercial printers also have mods available, and even some hard part swaps, but Voron is next level if you like to tinker. Even if you don't like to tinker, some mods are fantastic from a quality of life perspective and of course there are many many vendors that will sell you kitted parts
- The printer itself is highly capable in ways that go beyond just being CoreXY. Both the 2.4 and Trident can mechanically get their bed and gantry in plane because they use multiple z-steppers to move the bed (trident) or gantry (2.4) up/down. Bambu's printers use a single stepper and a belt to connect things
- Even if you buy a BOM in the box you'll learn a ton building the printer
Why not Voron?
- No official store or kit means you're going to either rabbit hole who to buy a BOM-in-a-box from or spend a lot of time self sourcing. I personally went with West3D's configurator
- You're building a printer from literal nuts, bolts, linear rails, and extrusions. It's not a hard build, but it is a long build. If you can put together IKEA furniture you can build a Voron, but it's going to take 20-40 hours
- They're not the budget proposition they once were
- You'll spend more time thinking through the build up front (who to buy from, what components to swap, what out of the gate mods, etc). Easy example: want to tune for resonance compensation? Gotta mount/wire up an accelerometer on the toolhead, unless you use one of the many tool-head PCBs that include one
- Cable chains look dope, but wire breaks are real. They're easy to repair, but they're annoying. Granted, you can just go umbilical out the gate. LDO's Nitehawk SB is dope
- You want to go even bigger. You can stretch a Voron taller, but Rat Rigs go quite a bit bigger
Edit: final thought. IMO I do not find myself wanting for "tech" and there's really not much missing from a Voron out of the gate. Nearly anything a Bambu can do is easily adopted to a Voron if you want to.
Self designed very specific objects are where it's at regarding 3D Printing IMO. Once you get into the habit of realizing that you can print a part for
<x>
you'll find yourself doing it again and again.Examples I've designed and printed include:
- two bluetooth speakers. I'm getting ready to print my first subwoofer
- tons of replacement parts (parts for kids toys, replacement knobs for our stove as the oem ones are $50/pop, etc)
- wheels with TPU tread and pockets for bearings for a fold up wagon. We've used that to cart our two kids around for 3 years now
You also find yourself being more adventurous with modifying other things knowing you can print interface parts. For example, our outdoor table had a 1.5" hole for umbrellas. We wanted a larger umbrella, which requires a bigger hole, so I cut a portion of the metal center of the table out and made a plastic adapter. I've also done lampshades and a bunch of other odds/ends around the house.
lol, I see. Printer tuning is a very real struggle for some and it happens that tree supports are one of the things that you can run into.
In my experience, broken tree branches come from:
- Crazy angles on the supports. This happens when a support needs to 'grow' over the print in order reach the thing it needs to support. This ultimately comes down to part geometry, so there's not a ton you can do here if you can't change the geometry or orientation of the part
- Poor bed adhesion causing the trunk to separate from the bed. Clean your bed with dish soap and dry it with paper towels. Make sure you have a good first layer by getting your your bed and gantry in parallel planes and double check your z-offset. Bonus points if you can do a bed mesh between prints
- The extruder catching on a branch and breaking it off. This is usually due warping or over-extrusion. Warping can be its own rabbit hole. Over-extrusion is easy to tune for, especially if your slicer has built in calibration aids (eg OrcaSlicer, SuperSlicer, etc)
- An ambitious slicer not making the supports themselves very strong. Slicers these days seem to avoid thin/tall trees, but they're still usually single perimeter. I've configured my slicer to use 0.6mm thick walls on supports
- If you have a bed slinger, tall supports can wobble. Slowing down acceleration/jerk is really the only way to combat this
Obviously, these can all be a bit interrelated.
The support in this print is basically vertical (no crazy angles), I generally have great bed adhesion/my printer can mechanically make its gantry in plane with the bed/I run a bed mesh every print/I use klipper_z_calibration to get a consistent first layer, nothing's warping and I've tuned my extrusion multiplier for this spool of filament, the support itself is strong due to its girth at the base and wall thickness, and CoreXY means that the support doesn't really move unless the extruder is dragging some.
I put this in another reply, but I know not everyone will pop back into the thread so...
I completely agree with your approach and that's what I would usually do. The print is probably off by 1%, which over these spans is 2mm. Massaging this print to fit isn't really practical :(
Sadly, almost is relative. The dimensions were off by say 1%, but over larger spans that's 1-2mm.
I am not at all opposed to taking heat and/or tools to prints to massage them vs tossing the first go and printing fresh, but that wasn't practical here :(
It's a stand to somewhat elevate and angle the speakers I used with my computer.
I'll follow up with another post in a day or two with the finished product.
My hobby space is largely in my basement. I have a 27" US General (Harbor Freight) roller cab + topper that stores a lot of my tools with the exception of tools I use for automotive work. Those live in my garage in a second topper. You'll never be able to beat the density of a toolbox and the drawers really help with organization (the hammer drawer, the measuring drawer, the pliers and what not drawer, the cordless tools drawer, etc).
I have a partial wood shop in my basement that includes a DIY work bench. It has a number of large (24" x 30") pull out shelves in the middle for hand tools. Pull out shelves are amazing.
My printer lives on top of two stacked IKEA LACK tables. From a concept perspective, it's nice. It gives a space under the first table and a shelf for printer things like filament, a dehydrator, etc. In reality, the stacked LACKs are super wobbly and more tightly spaced shelves would be more practical. I want to add pull out shelves to it, which should help give it more rigidity, but I might just build a printer stand from scratch.
So basically... pull out storage that stacks is great.
Ah, that's true. I guess they carried over into the early spring steel era.
Related: clips are a much better option than using double sided tape to attach glass to your bed. I just pulled my wanhao i3 clone out of retirement for my kids to mess with and getting the beat up ultrabase bed off was lots of fun...
The printer is a 350mm3 Voron 2.4, so the scale of photos of things on the bed is a bit off. I swapped to ACM panels and added radiant insulation after my last big print lifted the bed. All was well until this one, but I also haven't printed any larger rectangular things recently. Printing this 240mmx280mm thing flat lifted the mag sheet.
I've been printing long enough to remember binder clips. IIRC they were originally a reaction to the magnetic sheets originally used getting significantly weaker as temps go up. I would be pretty surprised if clips would help in this case, due to the forces involved thanks to the size of print, but it would never hurt to try I guess.
Cool, thanks! I will give it a try when I print the mirrored version of this thing.
At a glance, you should be able to add whatever batter you have left to a batch of corn bread/muffins.