That makes sense, thank you. I still added supports for this orientation under the top end of the curve. It was originally designed to print on the bottom, but I changed it this way because the original orientation needed too much support. I should have printed it on its side.
Thanks for the advice. I'm still learning, so what makes you say regular supports would be better for this compared to tree? I always struggle to get off tree supports from thin/skinny parts and end up breaking them.
I did that last night, but couldn't get the supports to show up for under the gourd like thing.
. I thought may be orca knows it better than me on supports, but sure enough it detached itself midway. What's worse, I woke up this morning and tried to remove the supports on the face, and they were super hard to remove. I pulled them with needlenose pliers and ended up ripping off the whole face of the instrument. Are my settings wrong, or did I just let it cool down too much? I used the settings from here https://www.reddit.com/r/OrcaSlicer/comments/15yjz2a/best_tree_support_settings_ive_used/
I think the issue is at least partly due to a wobbly table. I just took off the printer and placed it on the floor, redid the self test, and it's printing a lot better than before.
That makes sense, thank you. I still added supports for this orientation under the top end of the curve. It was originally designed to print on the bottom, but I changed it this way because the original orientation needed too much support. I should have printed it on its side.