No problem, most games I've tried run without much fuss just with proton enabled. For others, protondb is great (pointed in the right direction to get Jade Empire running) or fiddling with settings yourself, gamescope helps a lot even if I've found it has some issues with nvidia cards (had games freeze with hdr for example), more of my issues are probably related to having an ultrawide tbh.
- Posts
- 3
- Comments
- 156
- Joined
- 3 yr. ago
- Posts
- 3
- Comments
- 156
- Joined
- 3 yr. ago
- JumpDeleted
Permanently Deleted
- JumpDeleted
Permanently Deleted
I ripped the bandaid off last month, there's definitely fiddling and hdr is still in early days (works in gamescope, but found that can have issues with my nvidia card), I've been playing veilguard on proton ge for the last week, and proton experimental supports dlss frame gen now which is huge for me.
It's definitely in the good enough state imo, and it seems to rapidly be getting better.
I tried it, immutable is not for me on the desktop, went back to arch. Bazzite had HDR working on the desktop with my nvidia card, ended up doing the same in arch after finding out it there was a flag I needed to set, personally haven't had an issue with that set.
If you're good with immutable though, it seemed decent enough to me, was little to no fussing to get things going. I don't really distrohop though, historically I use debian on my machines but arch has been a solid experience in the past month.
The have active electronics in them so that if any non-apple right angle connectors are used it limits them to usb 1.0 speeds and 5v 0.5A power delivery. It's for your safety.
I still have my Sony Eriksson W580i, also thought it was the coolest thing.
Still works and holds a charge, pulled photos off of the memory card recently, cameras have gotten a lot better... Had the red one, have had some very brightly colored phones, my favourite being the bright yellow Nokia Lumia 1020
Had an amazing camera on it.Mine live outside in the garage , I built a Corsi-Rosenthal box (box fan with a bunch of filters on it) that stays on out there, and both of mine are in fairly decently sealed enclosures with HEPA+Carbon recirc filters.
Don't go in there when printing unless absolutely necessary, and even then, minimise exposure.
Was a thing when I took geo in first year, rock test (and the professor) was kinda a legend within engineering.
xFire was great, didn't know the whole yahoo thing
Kinda liked the separate applications for voice and chat, we used ventrilo over teamspeak for reasons I don't recall but all of that is just ancient history at this point (was using that like literally 20 years ago)
How the hell was that even issued? Ianal obviously, my recollection from uni engineering was that Prior Art matters.
Also, given that there's a lot of skilled people in the field these days, you'd think some of these patents could be challenged as being "obvious to a skilled person", bed levelling to me could fit that bill given it's a common issue that would make sense to pursue a solution for. Granted I'm not versed in us patent law (I barely have a basic understanding of Canadian Patent Law), so maybe that's different.
Use it constantly, as others have said windows -> type is the best way to use windows, and I do the same thing on my linux machines, actually a lot of the ones I use regularly are the same or similar in KDE (can't recall if it's out of the box or if I configured that)
CTL+windows+arrows to swap desktops (which have been in windows for a while now and I swear no one else uses), lots of ones around those are super useful. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/keyboard-shortcuts-in-windows-dcc61a57-8ff0-cffe-9796-cb9706c75eec for reference.
- JumpDeleted
Permanently Deleted
Be really interested to know what it's made out of. Had a coworker who used to work in forgings and did some stuff that got sent to nuclear plants, they said that they had really strict requirements on material compositions, specifically needed to ensure that the (think it was steel, may have been something else) material had basically no traces of cobalt in it because the cobalt would becomes radioactive over the service life.
I've seen it mentioned that ryzen is more memory speed sensitive, seen Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 X 8GB) DDR4 3600 MHz CL16 kit for £35 on UK amazon, see a 32 GB kit for £60 for 3600, £52 for 3200. 32 is super overkill for most people still (shit I recall when 16GB was considered overkill), but it's cheap enough that it's harder to say it's a waste imo.
Side note, GOW is what sold me on hdr and was the game that got me to upgrade from a 780ti and 3rd gen i5, literally couldn't even run the game.
- JumpDeleted
Permanently Deleted
I'm pretty sure you're right it was season eight, think it's from that documentary they did, there's a clip in that of Conleth Hill reading Varys' death apparently and looking disgusted, only clip I could find was reddit
If you're ok with some bulk, go for an nvme enclosure. I have a sabrent one with a 256 GB crucial gen 3 drive in it, it's a slow cheap drive, still substantially better than any usb key and you can put one together for under $100 cad including a longer high speed cable.
I just did a fresh install off of my usb key and wow, super slow compared to any time I've done off my enclosure
Too familiar with that plot, at least you diagnosed it quick and it was apparent, sometimes they show up super intermittent and are a pain to chase.
I think I recall you having a break a while back ago on !vorondesign@lemmy.world, same spot?
PETG is supposed to be petrochemical tolerant AFAIK, it is far easier to print and isn't as bad wrt Air Quality (Most filaments aren't the best to be around, PLA and PETG are nicer relative to others, ABS is nasty, nylon is really nasty, lots of fine particles and stuff if I recall, I have recirc filters on my printers and they live outside of the house)
That said, with an enclosure, a proper surface and bone dry filament, I found it to be a really nice filament to work with if you prep for it. It does have more shrinkage than ABS, I redid a lot of my hotend in PA6, was very tight in some places and a bit of a hassle to reassemble the first time, otherwise I really like it. I have an in country vendor that I usually source from, but the Glass Fibre PA6 that polymaker makes is REALLY nice to work with, found it has substantially lower warping than standard PA6, there's also low warp varieties you can look at.
Bed:
I use a Nylon Surface from a company called BuildTak, I hate to recommend brands but seriously, their surfaces are crazy good for adhesion, maintenance is a quick wipe with alcohol and that's it. They're also replaceable, peel off the steel backer and reapply.
I've seen mention garolite sheets as a fantastic surface for nylon (I think the BuildTak surface I use is a garolite sheet with their adhesive treatment, when I replaced it last time it's definitely some sort of fibreglass laminate so wouldn't surprise me). They're relatively inexpensive, a ~1.6 mm thick ~305x305mm sheet 1/16" 12"x12" is $14.50 usd on McMaster-Carr, but there's definitely 3d printing specific sheets out there.
There's the tried and true glue stick treatment, when I had a glass bed like a decade ago it was the only thing that consistently worked, I tried PA tape and masking tape, glue stick just works and makes it release easier, apply carefully and let it bake, if you're not even it'll lead to some ugly bottom surfaces, but I can live with that for functional items.
I found Nylon doesn't like to be "squished" as much as other filaments, I have my klipper setup with a slightly higher offset on my nylon sheet because of that.
Enclosure:
If you do go Nylon, use an Enclosure period. You need heat to help with warping and you ABSOLUTELY don't want to be breathing it in, it doesn't smell but gives off a lot of microparticles. As I said above, I have recirculating charcoal+hepa filters on my printers. I'd highly recommend you don't print in your living space if at all possible. I ran my bed at 100c last time, 100-110c is pretty common, I'd give it a nice long heatsoak, I tend to do at least an hour for larger prints in materials that warp.
Venting the enclosure loses you heat but actually solid for voc and particle control, don't need to worry about that if it's not there to worry about. Ideally I'd vent mine outside but I rent and I don't think the landlord would be fond of me knocking holes in the wall. Getting it out of the house and having recirc filters is the next best thing I can do.
Honestly, I don't find nylon that fussy, like anything, prepare for it and you're good. I recommend at least having a desiccant filled drybox though, they're easy to print or make and silica gel is cheap and reusable.
Pretending it's not locked down like the og surface arm devices, I'd consider getting one and totally drop some flavour of linux on it, 3:2 is a great aspect ratio for laptops.
Otherwise yeah, I wouldn't go anywhere near it
Edit: apparently I don't need to pretend, this hasn't been an issue for a while so that's actually great
Been a bit, so welcome to corrections.
Assuming you get these all in your hand turn one,
Black lotus and mox ruby have zero mana cost, play those. Use the black lotus to give you two green and one of your choice to pay for channel, sacrifice 19 life to add 19 mana to your manapool. Use the mix ruby to pay the red mana cost for fireball and then use the 20 mana in your manapool as the x cost, make opponent take 20 damage and you're done.
Unless it's changed, artifacts dont suffer from summoning sickness so you can use the tap abilities out the gate.
There's some counters like Foil, Force of Will that I think could work or Misdirection. Can't recall if there's any instants that do damage that you can discard or exile cards from your hand instead of paying for because that could work too as fireball is a sorcery (if I recall how the stack works correctly)