Second both, the phaetus nozzles are what I grabbed a bunch of when I was stocking up a few sizes of coated steel and brass nozzles, e3d are way pricier but the nozzle x and obxidian nozzles are really nice, hold up really well
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For shits and giggles decided to take a look at the site
there's ASCII art in the sourceIs your shop/garage/space heated? That's really impressive if not, I'm probably going to look at something like the clicky-clack door if that's the case, I've been ducttaping the gap instead of figuring out a proper seal. The tiny space heater I have in the garage just can't cut it with it actually being cold this week, so doubt I'd be able to hit those chamber temps in the winter. That soak time tracks with mine as well.
How are you planning on mounting the radiant insulation? Like between the frame and panels? Very much considering going that route on both printers, be interested seeing how well that performs, be interesting if anyone did something with Vacuum insulated panels, maybe sandwiched between ACM or something to protect them, they're fairly rigid if I recall but it'd suck to accidentally puncture one.
As @renegadespork@lemmy.jelliefrontier.net said, infant mortality is a concern with spinning disks, if I recall (been out of reliability for a few years) things like bearings are super sensitive to handling and storage, vibrations and the like can totally cause microscopic damage causing premature failure, once they're good though they're good until they wear out. A lot of electronics follow that or the infant mortality curve, stuff dying out of the box sucks, but it's not unexpected from a reliability POV.
Shitty of Seagate not to honour the warranty, that'd turn me off as well. Mine is pettier, when I was building my nas/server I initially bought some WD reds, returned those and went for some Seagate ironwolf drives because the reds made this really irritating whine you could hear across the room, at the time we had a single room apartment so was no good.
I vaguely recall seeing things like this over the years. You'd want a proper annealing setup IMO if you care about functional parts, assume you'd want a mill too as that'd probably have a really nasty surface.
That totally ignores the fantastic metal vapours and other stuff that a metal printer would give off. Don't get me wrong, I think metal printing is a super interesting idea, def think it's more industrial though.
On the other hand, there are products like BASF ultrafuse that are intended to be printed on fdm plastic printers and through post processing you'll end up with a metal print. No idea how well they work, but idea seems interesting and may be more accessible to hobbyists.
Misunderstood that then sorry!
I think you're onto something wrt to thermals honestly, the changes in translucency are odd. Do you get any inconsistencies doing large solid infill? Was having some issues that'd only show up on mid print solid surfaces, top and bottom layer were slow enough to mitigate, can't recall exactly what I did but changing spool and nozzle seemed to have helped plus I did a pid tune.
Mildly concerned I don't have a root cause, but it seems to be resolved now.
Edit: other thing I can think of with it having sat for some time, maybe you could have an issue with lubrication settling? Linear bearings can be a right pain to grease if you don't have access to them, but some light oil on the rails is better than nothing, what I've done when things sit for a while, though cycling things is likely doing more than any external lubrication would.
Definitely recommend the Ellis3D guides. There's a lot of inconsistency with walls, wobble between layers, extrusion widths etc means that measuring walls probably isn't going to give you an accurate measurement to base things off of, Ellis has some really solid (imo) steps to walk through and does have rational/explanations as to what their approach is.
Edit: Looking at your photo, almost looks like a woodgrain pattern, you said you changed your extruder, could possibly be the backlash setting? Too little or too much can apparently cause some recurring patterns.
Offtopic, how are you doing abs? An enclosure is a must, with one you should be able to do successful prints so long as you have a heated bed. Give it a good long heat soak at a high bed temp (I do 105-110c on the prusa) for an hour before you even start will go a long way. If you have enclosure or bed fans, even better, you'd be surprised just how hot you can get an enclosure with just the bed, this on my v2.4 so it's a higher than the prusa
Make sure your surface is oil free, dish soap and water if your surface allows it, some of the smooth pe surfaces I've had better luck roughing them up a bit with a scotchbrite pad or brass brush. I use a Buildtak surface these days but had success with standard sheets and a brim.
Great way of putting it!
I'm super for making hobbies accessible, and let's be real, I'd be willing to assume most of us have probably been burned by something like this in the past. Probably not a bad idea to have some sort of community resource for information, guides etc, might help some people in the future avoid it if it's something they care about.
Also going to be realistic, I absolutely care and advocate for open products that you fully control, but I know that it just doesn't matter to everyone.
I use Spoolman with labels to manage that, plugs into klipper so tracks usage, can swap filament on the screen. It supports qr code labels too, wanting to do something with scan in/scan out in the future but just having my filament tracked is helpful.
Unironically yeah, sitting on the other side of the table it's painfully obvious when people do resume projects. I'd rather talk to you about something you're passionate about.
Oh for sure, I'm firmly on the side of building a kit or sourcing your own for something like a voron v0.2 for people unfamiliar/uncertain; not a huge investment, will learn a lot assembling it and you'll have an abs capable machine that's yours at the end of the day. I do still absolutely recommend prusa kits too or second hand older ones, super easy to modify and there's and absolute wealth of information (and mods) for them.
Board swaps and conversion kits more for people who already have something and would rather modify it than buying a whole new machine, less waste than tossing the whole printer and getting a new one. Could use as a platform for something like a switchwire, there's an Ender 3 conversion out there for example, and looks like there's an anycubic Viper one too and another
Seen some threads on reddit of people swapping out for skr boards, found a git repo doing that for an adapter kit but does look to have things documented.
End of the day, it's just some steppers, sensors and heaters, klipper supports a bunch of different printer types (bed slinger, core xy, core xz, cartesian, polar, like seriously a lot). Hard part on some of these would more likely be connect components to the board, need to know voltages and pinout for example, but if you can figure that out you're good. Klipper is amazing and you can replicate a lot of custom stuff in macros.
I have to wonder if some of it is comfort or familiarity, I had a negative reaction to python the first time I ever tried it for example, hated the indent syntax for whatever reason.
I'm fine with bash for ci/cd activities, for what you're talking about I'd maybe use bash to control/schedule running of a script in something like python to query and push to an api but I do totally get using the tools you have available.
I use bash a lot for automation but PowerShell is really nice for tasks like this and has been available in linux for a while. Seen it deployed into production for more or less this task, grabbing data from a sql server table and passing to SharePoint. It's more powerful than a shell language probably needs to be, but it's legitimately one of the nicer products MS has done.
End of the day, use the right tool for the job at hand and be aware of risks. You can totally make web requests from sql server using ole automation procedures, set up a trigger to fire on update and send data to an api from a stored proc, if I recall there's a reason they're disabled by default (it's been a very long time) but you can do it.
Oh that's annoying, that looks like a din connector so no guarantee that a similar rated supply would have the same pinout, did find this Teardown of one but nothing about the supply from a quick glance unfortunately, I'd totally consider going at it with a multimeter and seeing if you can figure it out that way, looks like it should only have 24v and ground pins to worry about.
Depends on the printer, the large Vorons use high wattage ac heaters and are self enclosed, I have fans on mine that force air under the bed, can easily push into the 60s in the summer. My prusa in its enclosure maybe does mid-high 40s, but I have no issues with warping, did all my original voron prints on it and still use it for smaller/quick prints, good adhesion helps a lot, for small stuff I don't always preheat for abs. I pretty much run Buildtak surfaces on my printers, it's replaceable if it's damaged + adheres extremely well so I can get away with being a bit more carefree.
Haven't personally needed additional heating other than maybe a space heater in the garage to stop things from kicking out on a low temp when not in use, did consider modding one into the enclosure but I'm personally thinking about going for insulation first.
I'd be cautious about a long term extension cord outside, I'm not an Electrician or an EE so I won't give you advice on that, be nervous I'd clip it mowing the lawn at the minimum, mains spooks me so I give it an overabundance of caution.
Enclosures are a must IMO, but I do print mostly abs and nylon. I have mine in the garage in a separate airspace with recirc filters like the Nevermore, have the large stealthmax on my voron, I don't stay in the room when I print, but it definitely reduces the residuals.
If you have to print inside, vent outside, benefit of using an enclosure is that you can set this up pretty easily. Venting the entire room outside is also a good option. I do not recommend using anything but the "safer" filaments until you're certain the airspace is separate from your home, I'm on the cautious side.
All filaments produce fumes, you still don't want to be breathing pla or petg fumes on the regular, I don't mess with resin, you want VOC cartridges and a respirator for those AFAIK, I have some from previous jobs and they're pretty affordable but it sucks to work with those on in the summer (and I'd need to shave...). There's variation between manufactures of the same type of plastic, I've got some abs that has minimal to no scent, have another I've used that stinks.
Some of these have been around for a while or remind me of some, my crunchy new-age grandparents were hardcore into the NWO order stuff. Some others I recall
There's others but those stick out.