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IMALlama

@ IMALlama @lemmy.world

Posts
17
Comments
496
Joined
3 yr. ago

  • Need Some help with really Odd quality issues [Continuation from my Last Post]

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  • I'll take a stab at the colors: slicers are very good at consistent extrusion widths. They do the best they can with varying width, but rarely nail it the first time. The only thing you can really do is fiddle with print settings or change the design to have consistent width extrusions, but that will obviously impact the design. Even with consistent width extrusions you might have to fiddle with extrusion width to nail it.

    As for your first layer, are you seeing different squish in different areas of your bed? If yes, are you using a bed mesh?

    Grab a few of Ellis's first layer patches, spread them around your bed, and focus on getting them all to look the same.

    Edit for link: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/first_layer_squish.html

  • Share your 3D prints!

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  • Sorry for the delay. Yes, I did design it myself. I made a small post about it here that includes some frequency response curves. It sounds much better than the sun of its parts, which weren't that intentionally chosen, but it also makes it obvious how much DSP modern wireless speakers have - especially in the bottom octive. I personally like making things vs buying, so this is right up my alley. I will (eventually) get around to making an updated design with better components, but it's doing just fine so far.

    The print itself have proven to be very resilient. It's been knocked off a counter and fallen to the floor more than once. It also frequently serves as a step stool.

    Printed enclosures have a bad rap for not being "dead", but the rounded design without large flat surfaces is pretty dead. Yeah, the top and bottom aren't flat but they're not a uniform thickness to give them a bit more strength. The walls are "only" two perimeters, but the extrusion width was something like 0.8mm on a 0.6mm nozzle. I think the print has ~18% infill but it's been a while now.

    Let me know if you would like any more information!

  • Share your 3D prints!

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  • Thanks!

  • Share your 3D prints!

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  • Seeing some of these newer models that work right out the box make me excited! (Although building one yourself is always more fun if you’ve got the time)

    You can have a bit of both! Build a Voron and wind up with a pretty darn reliable printer. I posted about mine here.

    As promised earlier, here are some prints:

  • Share your 3D prints!

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  • Printers are a lot easier and more repeatable than they were 12 years ago. In FDM the big advances are print speed, quality of life, and filament material. Home SLA printers are also a lot more available than they were 12 years ago, but the overall process here hasn't changed (print, rinse, cure). The big question is if/when SLS will make it to a home user price point.

    My prints are mostly self designed and functional. I'll have to dig up some examples once I'm on a computer.

  • What should I go next time to piss this guy off

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  • Agree. They also made a post about getting back and their neighbor for making noises at 5am (early, sure) about an hour ago.

  • I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?

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  • I've dabbled in both automotive work and home renovation. Anyone who can do auto body work or interior finishing work well deserves way more credit than they usually get, so big kudos. I am pretty solid at the mechanical bits, but when it comes to finishing/painting things are a lot more difficult for me.

    Print finishing is something I've thought about a few times now, but most of my prints are functional and live a pretty hard life. A bit of texture from layer lines and other imperfections is the least of their concerns. That said, I have sanded ASA some and it sands amazingly well. I could see getting it pretty smooth without too much effort and then either using a solvent based or finishing based method. Of course, if your print has a lot of fine detail this is going to be a massive PITA.

    You can totally build a Voron anyway! I suggest magnetic panels, which makes popping the top super easy if you want to print PLA. I've run PLA, PETG, TPU, and ASA through mine. I have an under bed carbon filter that does a pretty good job with fumes.

    Agree on bike parts being a good print test bed. I'm impressed that anything held up with pedal loads, there's a lot of force there.

    My main motive for sticking with ASA is its easily attainable high volumetric flow. I can easily swing 30 mm^3/s on my Rapido without having to jack up temps. Between this, Core-XY motion, and input shaping prints are way faster than my old i3 clone. PETG is quite a bit slower. PLA can be fast, but it's also somewhat brittle.

  • I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?

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  • Makes a huge difference with my junky TPU if it is dry or not

    I am happy to have gotten lucky with Overture 95A!

    ASA/ABS

    I design my own prints too, but I also have a 350mm x 350mm bed. My bed size has lead to some fairly large prints. My printer is a Voron and I originally built it with the stock acrylic enclosure. This was fine for smaller parts (say 150-175 mm and smaller), but despite keeping keeping corners rounded and avoiding rapid shape transitions I still had some prints pull themselves apart or pull the print bed up. Even on cylindrical and rounded rectangle prints, without a solid top or bottom. It wasn't until I insulated my Voron that I was able to pull these larger prints off with a chamber temp of around 58 C.

    Maybe I should try another material as so far I've been sticking with polymaker ASA because it's cheap and prints decently. What are you using?

  • I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?

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  • That enclosure might work for smaller ASA prints, but I needed a lot more insulation than a garbage bag to pull off larger prints.

    Maybe I got lucky with TPU, but I didn't run into any significant issues with humidity when I printed treads for wagon wheels over the course of two or three days.

  • I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?

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  • TPU will be nearly impossible for your kiddo to destroy. ASA/ABS are rugged, but if your print has thin surfaces it's less strong in my experience than PETG.

    I didn't find TPU hard to print personally, just go slow and turn retraction way down or completely off. It will string pretty good, but most slicers have a setting to avoid crossing perimeters that will keep it in check. The only thing I would be wary of is ending up with a floppy print, so make sure the part has some structure.

  • I want to branch out from PLA. Should I try ABS or TPU?

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  • For smaller prints, agree. For larger prints a cardboard box will do just fine, but it needs a little something in my experience. Not too much mind you.

  • Buyer's remorse is such a strong taboo that it leads people to defend things in their lives which harm them. Can anything be done to start countering this?

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  • I made a bad choice and it's time to cut my losses

    You've received some good replies on this question, but I think there's also another question at play: an offshoot of identity politics. Many people wrap their personal identity around things. If you question the thing, or put restrictions on it, people take it as an attack on their persona since the thing and their person are so interwoven. You can see this with things like guns, vehicles (motorcycles, car vs truck, auto vs manual, brand x vs brand y), video game consoles, physical media, etc.

  • What is a food that you want to cook but you know you'll never have the motivation to make?

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  • Will do, thanks! I totally get having the tweaks in your head or written into the family recipe book with a pen. Our better homes cookbook has tons of notes/tweaks written into it now.

  • What do you look for in a sneaker?

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  • I am simply advocating for shoes that fit your feet. 99% of shoes tend to pretend like your longest toe is your middle toe. I've always found this weird.

  • What is a food that you want to cook but you know you'll never have the motivation to make?

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  • What is a food that you want to cook but you know you'll never have the motivation to make?

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  • Gaming chat platform Discord in early talks with banks about public listing

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  • That's fair.

    It’s one of the biggest repositories of human-to-human communication on the web.

    I am showing my age and have spent decades on various web forums. These sites have thousands, or even tens of thousands, of users and huge quantities of threads some of which can be very deep. Yes, each individual site isn't that big but there are tons of these things scattered around the web and I'm sure they've been crawled. One of the many, many, many manymanymany Ford Mustang forums has > 2 million replies. thirdgen.org, an 80s-early 90s Camaro/Firebird, forum has 763,427 threads with 6.45 million replies going back easily 20 years, which is well before bots.

    Discord does have 154M monthly users, so you're probably right that there is more content there than across all the various boards. It's also probably a heck of a lot easier to crawl than a bunch of different web forums.

  • Core One vs. Voron 2.4.

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  • Not a Prusa user, but the title of that bug does look accurate - the first layer is too low. Does Prusa support bed mesh and is there a way of setting the zero point of the bed relative to whatever they're doing for z-endstop?

    In klipper land there are solutions to this, but they're not baked into the out of the box solution.

    On my Voron if I want to guarantee a good first layer, I must:

    • let the bed temp stabilize after hitting temp for a bit. The bed is a nice thick piece of aluminum, which helps with consistent temp, but when the thermistor hits temp the top is still a little cool
    • wipe the nozzle to get it clean since my printer uses the nozzle for homing z. There are mods to automate this
    • bed mesh. This is available out of the box with klipper, but it will be turned off until you configure it and include it in print_start
    • I use a z Caliberation macro to align the z height of my z end stop and my klicky bed probe that's used for bed meshing. When setting this up, you need to make sure to use the same origin point as the bed mesh otherwise your first layer can be too low or too high

    My first layer is nearly aways flat. It will occasionally be too high or too low because there was a goober on the end stop or something else along those lines.

    Are you sure things are clean? Likewise, are you running a mesh? Have you tried adjusting z-offset up a touch?

    Honestly, I would start with first layer squish as you could easily be too low.

  • Gaming chat platform Discord in early talks with banks about public listing

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  • I don't see that being worth much $$ given the massive quantities of that information already available on the web via forums and what not?