Would you rather be able to magically speak the language, understand the customs/etiquette/etc, or know how to navigate the streets and hills upon visiting a new place?

Which do you think would be more important when going to a new place: being able to understand and speak the language like a native, knowing the customs and practices of the place, or understanding the streets like somebody who has lived there for decades?

edit: as somebody described it, it's language vs customs vs lay of the land