As a house with 3 dogs and 2 cats, it's not a real problem. Sometime a quick wipe is needed, but the critters ain't going to interfere with any printing.
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When you slice the keychain, have you painted in the letters with the chosen colors? Does it show the purge tower after slicing? And when you click to send it to the printer, does the popup screen show 2 spool images and colors? If it does, then the text is there and just embedded below the surface. and you need to raise it up to be flush with the surface.
Bambu Studio is ass for embedding text and some others things as well. Orca Slicer and Prusa Slicer a lot better with adding text.
Yeah, it could be possible to only ever need the mini and 80% is perhaps conservative. But, I as much as I find my Bambu Mini can cover the majority of my printing needs these days, I still need the print volume my Prusa Mk3s has for a very good number of practical prints I design and print. The real world often demands real world size and hates pieced together part designs lack of strength. And I still often need to resort to my metal working shop with lathe, mill, drill press and welders to make serious parts because plastic just ain't it.
If it works, it's a superb deal. And the print area will probably cover 80% of everything you might ever print.
Edit: Print quality is more about your ability to tune your printer, no matter the brand, then it is about the printer brand itself.
You are not alone! I have always been able to do that too. It still doesn't help with the tinnitus I've had since I was 4 or 5 though.
What was a revelation to me was the idea that everyone was only sleeping 3 or 4 hours a night. I thought I was perfectly normal in not sleeping for normal time spans. And despite the drugs and cpap machine I'm prescribed, I still can only sleep 5 or 6 hours now and often less. But I often am able to get to REM sleep now.
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It's possible Kilroy predates the Roman Empire. And he will certainly be here after the heat death of the universe.
This is kind of what I know from my experience. I have an A1 Mini with AMS lite and my trusty 5 year old Prusa Mk3s running Klipper. Not exactly the same, but close.
Mechanically, the linear rails vs the linear rods are more rigid and lead better overall printer rigidity than the more flexible linear rods. Is it enough to matter? With input shaping easily available on both printers, not really. But, those rails will require a bit more maintenance than the rods. My mini regularly prompts for cleaning and re-lubricating every so many hours of run time. Is it hard? Nope, but it IS something Bambu really recommends. The linear rod bearings are supposed to be greased before installation, (whether Soval does this or not is a question. Prusa didn't bother with my kit), And because the rod bearings have wiper seals to keep the dust out and the grease in, a quick wipe with a clean dry paper towel is all that's needed. No exterior lubrication required.
The AMS Lite is kind of nice, it keeps 4 spools of filament ready to go. And I keep 4 different colors ready or a spool to run out and then take advantage of being able to easily swap to another spool mid print and keep printing. I have done just enough multi-color prints to say I know how. Mostly just signage though. And it's very wasteful as a rule. The RFID tags identification and setup isn't worth the extra cost I need to pay vs the "generic" filaments I buy. I am not so unskilled or lazy to set up my own profiles quickly and easily. And the few spools of Bambu filament I have used has demonstrated it's no better than any of the small handful cheaper brands I normally use. This is a YMMV situation. The Soval does not offer a builtin solution for the AMS, but some few more universal 3rd party units are now starting to come on the market.
Another "this may or may not matter to you" is that Bambu runs on legacy Marlin and the Soval runs on Klipper. Adding things to Bambu's version of Marlin while doable, is a pain in the butt. Not much information is available on their version. For example, I wanted to turn off the input shaping at the start of every print. It's noisy and not needed for every print. It took me a couple of weeks to find and learn to edit the intro macro to achieve my goal. Klipper is far, far easier to edit and make changes in. And you can access things like Obico for Klipper to monitor prints for spaghetti detection-- which Bambu cannot do. You can also more easily ignore a region if a plate full of models has one model fail at some point. Bambu requires the Handy app and you need to be logged into Bambu to use it I think. Studio offers no such functionality on the desktop.
The TL;DR: Your choice depends on what YOU want from your printer. It's a YMMV all the way down. I do not regret my purchase of the Mini, but I won't ever be buying another Bambu. But that's just me.
Infills over 10 to 15 percent get you very little increase in strength. It's not until you get to the sweet spot of 80-85 percent infill rates do you get a real boost in strength. Then above about 85% the gains again taper off dramatically all the way to 100% infill. Otherwise you are merely wasting filament and money to just feel good. If you need more strength, add more perimeters and tops and bottoms.
I would use a .60mm nozzle, PETG or PLA will work just fine, 4 perimeters, and 4 top and bottom layers. And either 10% cubic or gyroid infill. That should create a part that will last for years.
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They still taste good. So they got that going for them I guess.
Maybe round it up to 4 just to be safe.......
And if you insist on being unattractive, then have you tried being rich?
Yep. When buying a product, it ain't about the packaging, color of the paint, or the sticker/badge hung on it. It's all about the service when things go sideways. And at some point something will go wrong, it always does. That's when you learn just how good or bad a company is.
As a boomer, reading this thread/discussion has been so amusing in many ways while enjoying my cuppa tea this morning. A classic "the younger generations are stupid."
The older generations looking down the ones that follow. And the following generations looking down on those that precede them. And no one understanding ain't none of us are all that bright.
Ever has it been, and so ever shall it be.
And there is little reason to do input shaping on the start of every print unless you change the mass of the moving parts by a noticeable amount. And even then, it does nothing once the print starts. You get what you get anyway when the print is finished.
What would be better is if a printer could measure and adapt to the changing resonances as the printer was printing. But I suspect that ain't going to happen anytime soon due the complexity and the ultimate question: "How good does good enough really need to be."
Only if the lock isn't worn or dirty on the inside. I wouldn't trust this for any outdoor lock or older lock. Even cheap locks with poor fit and finish causing rough operation would not be a good idea. This is a fun gimmick that could easily cost you more money than it's worth.
The only way I might use it is if I were to use the 3D printed key as a pattern to cast a metal one. And I ain't got time for that.
Machines are still cheaper. They don't need to be fed or housed every day and you get more work out of machine per hour than any living creature-- be it a horse or slave. And when you are done with a piece of equipment, you turn it off and walk away.
It's still the same function at the base level-- to deliver and install/remove, in an easy manor, whatever software package the user wants to use/remove. Whether it's a good system or not, is a separate issue.
Every Ubuntu based distro I've tested allows snaps. The highly touted beginner's distro Linux Mint sure does. Even Fedora can use snaps and Ubuntu can use flatpaks if you want to be that silly. I have tested that both ways and it worked. But it was merely OKish. It's just Ubuntu pushes snaps and Fedora pushes flatpaks. So snaps aren't as insular as you seem to think.
For the user, there isn't much difference between a snap, flatpak, deb, or rpm in use. The basic install or remove experience is meant to be the same, it's supposed to be a carefully curated point and click. Even Gentoo's portage is supposed to be simple for the user. The one other not quite as common, but a bit more universal installation method for users is the appImage package. I use several appImages because that's the only way they are available. And personally, over the nearly 3 decades of fooling with Linux, I've had issues with all of the package management methods. I still have PTSD from being repeatedly caught in rpm hell back in the day or needing to compile from source. (Damn, I'm old)
The longer I use Linux, the more I think that whatever distro you choose, it's more a matter of how you personally vibe with that distro than anything intrinsically better than the rest of them. Just about everything else is window dressing.
So basically, Ubuntu just with a different name and paint job. (I've used them both)
We are all at the most basic level, running pretty much the same kernel, one of the same small handful of desktop environments, and we choose from the same pool of software, (unless you need to get out into the weeds for a program on git hub). Everything else is either window dressing, (package mangers are window dressing-- they all do the same basic thing), or a choice on just how close to the bleeding edge we want to be, (rolling releases or immutable).
Celery is excellent that way. A peanut butter lover's dream
I recommend installing the open light and open dark theme for a better user experience in FreeCAD. Everything seems a bit clear and easier to use, YMMV