I haven't tried it yet but I ordered a couple of tz v6 v3 for my dual extruder build that has been pending electronics for ages. If they perform well I might get more and put a tool changer on my main printer.
I sort of did this today. I was testing what each setting in orca slicer's scarf seam section did and I had the scarf flow at 0.6 and forgot I even had scarf seam on but some seemingly random features ended up as disconnected lines and I blew through like half a roll in calibration prints that came out flawless or near flawless before I realized
I'm shocked at how much it recovered. I'm also glad I'm not the only one still running an ender 3.
Do you have a multi meter? You might have to adjust the little screw for the y motor. I'll see if I can find the instructions for that. The wires in my pic are from the uart mod so I can do it in software.
Edit: people called it vref adjustment. You want it low enough that the motors don't overheat but high enough that it can move the bed and the print without skipping. If you have an aftermarket board the procedure might be different and you might be able to do it in settings.
Also if you haven't already, I would also recommend unscrewing the wires one by one in the green screw terminals and clip off the soldered ends and strip off enough to put the bare wire back in and screw them down to avoid the fire risk. Crimped ferrules would be better but that needs a crimper and the ferrules.
Here's what can happen with the stock soldered wire ends:
And I caught this one as the electronics were off the printer and outside of my old ikea lack enclosure. If you dont notice it it could be really bad.
D3d sigma prototyping abs. I was expecting it to be shit but it had no problems at all. It's actually my remaining stock from the ender 3v2 era and it still works as expected. It's still available but it could be totally different now for all I know. Several brands became big names now but d3d seemingly became less known. They also had transparent abs which I previously bought for voron toolhead leds but it was out of stock when I was looking at the available colours the other day.
The only recent comparison I can do is the eryone black abs I bought this month that I swear is just stinky petg. Super glossy vaguely waxy feel, very stringy and oozey.
Can't even get it where I live but I've been wanting to try it. Those prices are bonkers though and it better be really good to justify it. I get my cleanest prints off of $14 cad per 1kg roll ABS and its really hard to justify the things the more expensive filaments when they print like shit after doing every calibration
Dont forget if you leave your bike locked up somewhere and it gets stolen the majority of the time you are just shit outta luck. Why should flock cams be any different?
I guess I'll burn the last 200g on this roll going through the whole calibration suite again while the last one is drying