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InitialsDiceBearhttps://github.com/dicebear/dicebearhttps://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/„Initials” (https://github.com/dicebear/dicebear) by „DiceBear”, licensed under „CC0 1.0” (https://creativecommons.org/publicdomain/zero/1.0/)B
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3 yr. ago

  • Ah, I didn't gather that you were implying that they were doing a partial enforcement so I was confused.

  • They don't appear to be labeling in both the display name and bio, just the bio, so aren't they breaking the rule?

  • So it's basically as federated as a fediverse server with federation turned off lmao

  • New TV

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  • Wouldn't that only work if your neighbors tv was plugged into Ethernet so that the wifi chip can be free to start a hotspot? I can't find any info about that so I'm not sure.

  • New TV

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  • I still have a smart TV so I don't need to have a non smart tv. But I refuse to use smart features for several reasons:

    • The built in software is often laggy, ugly, and hard to navigate (mine is from like 2016 so all 3 of these are huge issues for my specific TV but my parents just bought a 2024 model oled and I find their gyro / touchpad / pointer remote to be excruciating to use)
    • I hate the idea of getting used to the Samsung apps / os and then feeling like I need to stick with Samsung
    • They never seem to support the software very long - my TV pre-dates Samsung's current tv OS and no longer receives updates, so the Plex app available for it doesn't even connect - so I couldn't use it even if I wanted to

    I mostly watch stuff downloaded to my Plex, so a PC running Plex htpc / desktop or any android box (Nvidia shield is pretty good) with the Plex or jellyfin app is all I need. I also like that I can easily watch YouTube through a browser with ad block and sponsorblock (I think smarttube does that for Android boxes like the shield)

    I also game on the PC so I guess you could consider it a game console for the purposes of categorizing the use case.

  • New TV

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  • The nice thing about Samsungs is that basically all their remotes work with all their TVs, so I just found one without the smart button so I can't tell that mine is smart, and I obviously never connected it to internet. I think it's a lot cheaper than trying to get a commercial dumb TV too.

  • Just tossing some more ideas in the ring:

    Make sure there isn't a piece of plastic stuck to the heater under the bed - happened to me a couple times and it causes a very sudden high spot that manifests as a very thin spot on the first layer or a hole if it's bad enough.

    If your bed is PEI, I find that fresh from a dish soap wash or isopropyl wipe down isn't always the best adhesion - but I find that printing just the first layer and then peeling and restarting can give an even better adhesion since the first layer picks up any contaminants very well, but that doesn't seem likely to be the root cause here.

    Are you able to watch up close while it prints the first layer? You should be able to see whether the plastic is still coming out of the nozzle when it hits the bad spot. You should also be able to easily see if the plastic is still coming out but balling up on the nozzle, or if it's getting squished too much and having trouble due to a high spot, or if it stopped extruding for a moment and only pulled the last bit of extrusion into a thin hair while not pushing out any new filament even though there's space under the nozzle. That will help narrow down the issue a lot between a bed leveling issue, adhesion issue, nozzle clog issue, or other extrusion issue.

    Just looking at the picture, because it happens around the same spot as it goes back and forth, it feels more like something around that spot on the bed - either a high spot or a dirty spot. But watching what happens up close and how the filament coming out up close behaves should help determine.

  • It looks like the orange thing on the top pushes the phone forwards when pressed.

  • Gotcha, currently I just pay $5/mo for mullvad but I've considered adding usenet to the mix in case it can find a few missing episodes here and there. But I would be basically doing that only for my friends because all of the stuff I watch is popular, recent, and on streaming sites so I don't have any issues finding it on public indexers.

  • Doesn't usenet usually cost money too though? I see them as about equivalent, it's just that I already need a VPN to access certain porn sites in my state so I might as well use the same subscription and torrent for free instead of adding another cost.

  • This is the main reason I always preferred running my own arrstack over paying for realdebrid. Besides mullvad VPN going out of business suddenly (which wouldn't be that hard to switch) or taking down all torrent indexes simultaneously, there is no service that can be taken down using the law that would interrupt my media consumption. And even if all torrent sites went down tomorrow, I can trivially hook back up my arrstack to a dht crawler and ill be basically fully decentralized, pulling infohashes from the ether and downloading using purely P2P technologies with no (practical) central point of failure.

  • My primary use case is safeguarding my important personal artifacts (family photos, digitized paperwork, encryption key / account recovery / 2FA backups) against drive failure (~2TB), followed by my decently sized Plex server (23TB), immich, nextcloud, and various other small things like selfhosted bitwarden, grocy, ollama, and stuff like that.

    I run all of my stuff off of a 6 bay Synology (more drives helps with capacity efficiency as double redundancy with 6 drives costs you 30% and I wanted to be protected against drive failures during rebuilding) with an Intel nuc on top to run plex/jellyfin transcoding using quicksync instead of loading the poor nas with cpu transcoding, I also run ollama on the nuc since it has faster cores than the nas.

  • Personally I'm hoping for a John Oliver + Onion collab with the Infowars studio

  • I concur about rechargeables - it doesn't seem common for devices that take AA or AAA to have a battery gauge and it would be nice to be able to check the level on my rechargeables stock so I can know if I should top them off without needing to put each of them into the charger.

  • Is that petg? For some reason I usually have problems with petg and infill patterns that cross over itself so I usually switch to gyroid. I think it has something to do with the speed and flow and the properties of the filament that make it especially bad when the infill lines cross over itself. You can probably tune temps, speeds, and feeds to get it to work but I find it easier to just not use that infill pattern.

  • It's from the Onion! The artist is Ward Sutton but he's drawing the comics from the point of view of a character named "Kelly" who is a parody of an old right wing guy (according to the Internet) who hates political correctness, hence the exaggerated scenarios in the comics. The "haha yes" sickos guy (who I guess sometimes shows up in a thought bubble) usually feels like a parody of how the right views various left wing policies in that the comic overplays / exaggerates the disastrous effects of said policies (to make fun of how absurd those fears are) while the "leftist sickos" cheer on the disastrous results.

    The comics basically make fun of how extremely the right views progressive policy and the sickos guy is kind of pointing out how absurd it is to view someone as bad faith (ie a sicko knowingly cheering on the disastrous effects of a progressive policy) who supports something as simple as green energy, drug legalization, or bike lanes. It's fun to use as a reaction image to anything progressive happening because obviously wanting something like for example affordable healthcare obviously doesn't make you a sicko. (Or in this case wanting a terrible person to actually face actual legal consequences for the harm they've done)

  • Things around me aren't that far per se, but you have to cross a 45mph road (where people regularly drive 55-60 because it's designed like a highway) along several sections of unconnected sidewalk if you want to get there without a car. The sidewalks are 4ft wide at most and have no separation from the car lanes so you have to walk with cars whizzing by just a couple feet from you. There's also no shade.

    For reference - it takes 5 minutes to drive to the nearest grocery store 1 mile away, but walking it's 31 minutes with the unpleasant conditions I mentioned. So I've never walked there. I could bike and it would take 10 minutes, but biking along cars at 50mph doesn't sound fun. I also live on a bike path, but it doesn't go to the nearest grocery store so the nearest one along the bike path would take the same amount of time as if I walked to the nearest one (25 minutes). That one is 3.5 miles (11min) by car or a 1hr walk.